| Oludeniz
means "dead sea" in Turkish. The actual town
is named Belcekiz, but if you walk a couple hundred meters
down the beach, you reach a peninsula of sand which creates
a sheltered lagoon. The still, deep blue water behind
this spit of land is the "dead" calm sea.
Campgrounds
on the lagoon provide quiet places to relax, with or
without the family. Bring your tent or rent a fully
equipped caravan or camper trailer. Back in the town
of Belcekiz, you can choose from a range of hotels.
A clean midrange bungalow in a garden setting with AC,
TV, and private bathroom costs around $35 USD a night
for two.
Besides the
beautiful beach and bay, the reason we came here was
to trek along the Lycian Way. It's a meandering trail
that follows the contour of Mediterranean coast of southern
Turkey. While the 300 km trail itself was opened 1999
it is comprised of paths that are thousands of years
old. Take a month and hike the whole trail to Antalya,
or pick smaller sections to explore over a few days.
Lycian Way
mapOne of the many highlights along the way is Butterfly
Valley. This section of the Likya Yolu (in Turkish)
is over 300 meters above the water. Start at Faralya
and hike the down steep trail about 45 minutes to reach
Butterfly Valley on the coast. Vertical cliffs on both
sides of the narrow beach define the valley. Hippy expatriates
raise over 40 organic foods and try to escape the real
world in this mostly self-sufficient Walden. Hold those
ropes tightly when climbing back up to the main trail.
This side trip is not for the faint of heart.
On the small
plateau at Faralya you will be greeted by the sight
of George House, a family run inn with bungalows for
travelers to stay and communal meals to bring back that
hiking energy. Hasan is the host and son of the owner.
He is a kind man and his family create a comfortable
environment to relax. This is a popular lodge so make
reservations if you can.
Finding a
place to stay isn't always about reservations. In many
villages, families welcome trekkers into their private
homes. They'll flag you down along the trail, lead you
home, clean up their bedroom, and sleep in the kitchen
for the night. Dinner and breakfast are included, which
are often delicious, but pale in comparison to the experience.
You leave knowing you helped a local family, most of
whom are simple farmers living off the land. Roads and
electricity have just arrived at some of these villages.
Along the
trail are historic towns and ruins like Letoon and Xanthos.
Xanthos is a mini version of Ephesus, with an amphitheater
where gladiators fought in Roman times. See beautiful
tile mosaics and Lycian tombs without jockeying with
tourists for a position to take a picture. The Chimaera
or eternal flames of Mount Olympos are another popular
destination with tree houses overlooking the Mediterranean.
Mediterranean Sea coast
The most stunning part of the Lycian Way are not specific
places or ruins but the way you start to get used to
life here. It isn't uncommon to spend a few hours with
a stranger walking along the trail as they commute home
on foot; you are the one visiting after all. The list
of stunning views is endless but it's the smaller moments
that you remember. A meal shared with a family on the
side of the road where conversation is a mix of pantomime
and a few shared words. Walking through the olive groves
seeing the ripe fruits hanging down on the branches
will return to your mind with every olive eaten. Or
maybe it's the herds of goats whose ancestors have walked
these trails since ancient times.
If you are
thinking about hiking the Lycian Way there are a few
things you should consider. First, the trail is not
an easy walk, there is a lot of up and down. You should
be ready for the possibility of camping out, while there
are usually places to stay in every village it isn't
as if there is a Comfort Inn. Turkey is a primarily
Muslim country so women should dress modestly covering
their legs and upper arms. Turkish summers are very
hot, and the Lycian Way is best traveled in the spring
and fall.
Matt Lepkowski
is the founder of TravelsInParadise.com and lives in
the mountains of Colorado.
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Resource: Travelsinparadise.com |